Catalytic Carbon Coconut Shell 1 Cubic Feet - Replacement GAC Media

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GAC Activated Catalytic Carbon Coconut Shell 1 Cubic Feet - Replacement GAC Media FRP Tank


For whole house water filter FRP. Aquarium or other water filtration needs

1 CU FT OF Catalytic Carbon

Catalytic Carbon high activity granular activated carbon manufactured by steam activation of select coconut shell charcoal. The Catalytic activity of this activated carbon makes it highly effective for the removal of chloramines from potable water. Its large micropore volume makes it particularly well suited for the removal low molecular weight organic compounds and their chlorinate by-products such as chloroform and other trihalomethanes (THMs). An important feature of this material is its superior mechanical hardness and extensive dedusting during its manufacture ensures an exceptionally clean activated carbon product.


  • Chloramines
  • Hydrogen Sulfide
  • Taste and Odor
  • VOC Removal
  • Iron Removal
  • Residential and Commercial Water Filters
  • Aquarium water treatment
One of the key characteristics of activated carbon is not only the high surface area available relative to their mass, but also the ability to act as a substrate for other materials. Internal surface area in the range of 850-2000m2/g allows the concentrated loading of highly specialized reagents (for example platinum and rhodium for hydrogenation processes) to the carbon surface that can be used in synthesis and catalysis applications across a range of industries. Activated carbons Carbons are carefully engineered to have the correct physical properties to optimize their use in this duty, manufactured from coconut shell, coal or wood bases.

Many water utilities across the U.S. are transitioning to chloramine for disinfection as an alternative to chlorine. This change is in response to stricter U.S. Environmental Protection Agency regulations on disinfection byproducts (DBPs), which are created when chlorine reacts with organics in water. Chloramine, a combination of chlorine and ammonia, is more stable and does not create DPBs.

Removing chloramine at the point of use, however, is more difficult than removing chlorine. Standard granular activated carbon (GAC) and carbon gac products have limited capacity for chloramine reduction. Products known as “catalytic” or “surface-modified” activated carbon can provide a solution.

In general, the catalytic properties of carbon are measured by the rate at which carbon decomposes hydrogen peroxide. The resulting peroxide number, measured in minutes, estimates the carbon’s utility in any catalytic application, including chloramine reduction. Based on the comparative results obtained for different mesh size commercial carbons, the efficiency of chloramine reduction is discussed in the terms of peroxide decomposition capacity and further extended to the total life (volume) claims for corresponding GAC carbon.

Chemistry of Iron Oxidation:

 A mineral found in soil, iron normally exists in an insoluble oxide form, namely ferric oxide. If acidic ~ or carbon dioxide ~ containing water passes through the soil, the insoluble ferric oxide is reduced to the very soluble ferrous form. When water is pumped from the ground, oxygen from air enters the water and is available for reaction with the ferrous iron. In the presence of oxygen the ferrous form is eventually oxidized to the insoluble ferric form, resulting in familiar red deposits that stain sinks and clothes.

 In iron removal processes, the insoluble ferric hydroxide comes out of solution and is separated from the water by either filtration or settling. Catalytic carbon accelerates the reaction rate of ferrous to ferric iron dramatically, completely removing the in the relatively short time the water is in contact with the carbon

 Under normal conditions, the reaction rate of ferrous to ferric iron is fairly slow, even when excess oxygen is present. This slow reaction rate necessitates the use of large retention tank and sedimentation tanks to allow time for precipitation to occur. A separate filtration step is then required to remove the remaining particulate.

 In treating iron-laden water, the catalytic properties of the form of granular activated carbon perform quite differently from standard activated carbon. The catalytic properties greatly accelerates the reaction time of iron to an insoluble form. By oxidizing iron from a soluble to less soluble state, catalytic carbon serves to simplify the removal.

 The resultant increase in reaction rate that occurs by using catalytic carbon allows smaller pieces of equipment to be used. As with all oxidation techniques, oxygen is required ~ but a simple eductor or air injection pump is all that is required. As the reaction occurs, the precipitate is collected on the surface of the carbon, and a secondary filter is not required. Periodic backwashing is performed to remove this iron floc and return the carbon to a usable state.

 Another benefit of the catalytic carbon is  its proven performance in removing hydrogen sulfide (H2S) from water. Many iron-containing waters also contain H2S and same bed of catalytic carbon can be used to remove both.

 Similarly, the unique reactive nature of the internal surface of activated carbon means that there is an inherent ability for the promotion of reactions between gases and liquids that would either proceed too slowly or generate uneconomic yields of final product. This is achieved without the need for the addition of a chemical reagent to the activated carbon and often true catalysis proceeds, without degradation of the surface or adsorbent.


Periodically, you are going to have to replace the media in your system. It may be years down the road if you have a new one, but you might want to know how. It's fairly easy to do, and a great DIY project. It's not rocket science! If you have an older system that is not performing like it used to, it is time to change the media.

Your structural tank comes with a manufacturer's warranty of 10 years. They last much much longer than that, unless you've abused it, or the threads are damaged, it is generally not an item that needs to be replaced. Do inspect it carefully though. The two things that can go wrong is, as we mentioned, media that is exhausted, or your control valve is malfunctioning.

First of all, turn on the water by-pass valve on your system so that you can work on it. You will want to relieve the water pressure still in the unit, turn the control to "backwash" for 30 secs, so the system purges some water and pressure. There should be no water coming out of the drain after the first few seconds if your by pass valve is on. Put the control back into service mode.

Unplug the electricity, remove the pipe fittings to your unit, . Once your filter is free from your plumbing, unscrew the control valve. You will probably need someone to hold the unit while you unscrew it. Once it unscrews, you will notice that it is attached to the distributer/riser tube. This tube is attached to the control valve by an o-ring, so pull up on it. If the tube comes up with it, don't worry, just grab on to it and separate them. Put the control valve away from where you are working. You don't want to get media or dirt into it.

The unit is heavy with water and media. You may want to move it, in which case, siphon the water out. If your distribution/ riser tube is not too far out of the tank, insert a lenght of hose down the tube to siphon out the water. With the tank now considerably lighter, pull out the distributor/riser tube and dump out the old media and dispose of properly.

Clean out your media tank. Wash it with a bleach solution. If your media needed to be replaced because of fouling, this is especially important. Don't forget to clean the distributor/riser tube as well. Once it's clean and dry, we are ready to rebuild.

Center your distributer/riser tube in the tank. There is a shallow indentation at the bottom of the tank it fits in. The bulb part goes in the bottom! cover the opening of the distributer/riser tube with a plug or a piece of plastic securely rubber-banded to the tube. You DO NOT want any of the media in that tube, it will find it's way into the control valve and cause it to malfunction.

Now you are ready to rebed the filter. Use a funnel and add the media to the tank. keeping the distributor/riser tube centered. It may be easier to add it slowly, rather than pouring it directly from the heavy bag. The media is never the entire depth of the tank, there is always at least half to a third empty space to provide plenty of room for backwashing. Some media like Filtersorb will be even less. That's normal.

When you've added all the media to the tank, clean off the protective cap/cover on your distributor/riser tube, and then remove it. Put a little food grade silicone grease on the O-ring in your control valve, the one that holds the distributor/riser tube in place. Insert the control head on to the riser tube and push down so it forms a nice seal. Screw the control valve back on, attach your plumbing, and plug in the control valve.

Open a faucet down stream from the filter to purge the air that will be in the system from the newly rebuilt filter. Turn on the water S-L-O-W-L-Y to the filter, take your time. Check for leaks. The water may be dised, especially if it's carbon that you've replaced. It's normal. The purging air will be noisy...Don't freak out! Once all the air is purged, let it sit for a few hours or overnight. It's OK to keep using water during this time, you'll see some disation, but it's just aesthetics.

Now it's time to put it through a back wash cycle to remove media dust, and if it's softener media or other media that needs to be regenerated, this is the time to do it. Make sure you have a faucet opened downstream in case there is still some trapped air in the system. Put the filter through an entire cycle to clean it all up and to regenerate. With a carbon filter, there will still be some residual carbon fines in the water for a few days after a backwash, again, that's normal. Make sure the valve is working correctly and there are no leaks. That's it

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